One of the things I’ve realized the more involved I get in jewelry design is just how many man made synthetics are out there. Now, I have nothing against manmade or artificial gemstones, they’re great to have, can look as good (and sometimes even better) than the real thing, and are a very cost effective way to buy some beautiful jewelry at a much lower price than you’d get otherwise.
Having said that, I also believe in the old adage, “If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.” While I work towards getting my gemology certification, I’ve picked up little tips and tricks along the way from jewelers and gemstone buyers, and thought I’d pass them along to you. None of these will make you an expert, but they might help you along the way, or at least cause you to ask questions about the things you come across.
So, three of my favorite stones are here, and I’ll add others as I learn.
Pearls
The pearls most of us wear today are cultured pearls, which grow when a small bit of irritant is introduced by humans who insert a bead or other object into an oyster or clam. The clam coats the foreign object with nacre, the patina that gives pearls their unique appearance. Even cultured pearls with thicker coatings are more fragile than most other gemstones, so you must handle them carefully to keep them in the best condition.
Here are some ways to differentiate between real pearls, both cultured and natural, and imitation such as glass.
Tooth Test (Do not do this in a jewelry store - they’ll get annoyed!)
Rub the pearls lightly along the biting edge of your upper front teeth. If they feel gritty or sandy, they are real pearls. If they feel smooth, they are probably imitations.
Friction Test
Take two pearls then lightly rub one against the other. If they feel gritty or sandy, they are real pearls. If they feel smooth, they are not real.
Matching Test
Observe the whole pearl jewelry piece, their shape, luster, size, and color. Imitations can perfectly match while real pearls tend to be variations.
Overtone Test
Imitation is lack of overtone. Real pearls have various overtones.
Amber
One of my very favorite stones, they always strike me as looking like a lovely crystal chunk of honey or maple syrup, with that rich color. Amber is the fossilized resin of huge, ancient, coniferous trees such as pines and cedars. This aromatic resin oozed down the sides of trees, as well as filling internal fissures, sometimes trapping debris, such as seeds, leaves and insects. As geologic time progressed the forests were buried and the resin hardened into a warm, golden gem, known as amber. Most of the world’s amber is in the range of 30 to 90 million years old. Although amber is found in various countries, the highest quality amber, marked by a great wealth of variety, is Baltic amber.
There are a couple of very cool properties that amber has - it floats, and it can take an electric charge.
In ancient times, the Greeks noted that if they rubbed certain objects with fur, it would accumulate an electric charge, and that the charged amber buttons could attract light objects such as hair. They also noted that if they rubbed the amber for long enough, they could even get a spark to jump.
Another property of amber is its buoyancy - it stays afloat in salt water . The clearest or transparent ambers are more dense, whereas amber varieties containing numerous air bubbles and are less dense. That’s why it is easy for locals on the Baltic Coast to find it washed up on beaches, especially after storm events. To do this test, mix about 1 part salt to 2 parts water and dissolve the salt completely. Drop your piece into the mixture. Plastic and copal will drop out, while amber floats.
One of the simplest non-destructive tests that you can do yourself is to clean and taste the specimen. (Again, this is likely to be viewed with dismay during a show, so use with caution!!) Carefully washing with soap and water, then with just water, should leave a clean specimen ready for this test. Lick the specimen slowly several times, allowing the subtle taste to linger. It should be extremely subtle - real amber has almost no taste at all, leaving at most a very slight, tingly sensation. Most plastic or other polymer forgeries, on the other hand, carry a distinctly nasty taste that screams, “Imitation!” Don’t be fooled, remembering this simple taste test can save you considerable trouble in your adventures with amber.
Finally, copal (immature resin) and plastic fake amber do not hold up to solvents. Take a few drops of acetone (fingernail polish remover) or alcohol and drip it over the surface of your piece. If the surface becomes tacky, or the fluid takes on the honey golden color of the substance, you can bet it’s not amber. Amber is not harmed and will not dissolve under these solvents.
Turquoise
Turquoise gift of the gods, venerated as sacred from time immemorial. This stone was once more valued than gold, with that deep turquoise blue that so defines the term today.
I haven’t really come across a lot of tips to tell you that turquoise isn’t real, although I have found out that a large amount of it is ’stabilized’, which means it has been treated with various waxes mineral oil, paraffin or epoxy resin to deepen the color and make it hard enough to work. It also stabilizes the color permanently. True untreated turquoise changes with ownership, becoming uniquely yours.
Natural turquoise is porous. It changes color over time and after contact with body oils, perspiration, dirt and soap. That, plus the fact that only a small proportion of turquoise is naturally hard enough to be cut and polish to a high luster, means that many producers work with a certain proportion of treated stones. Again, there is absolutely nothing wrong with this, I read that an estimated 85% of turquoise has been treated in some way. But natural turquoise is rare enough to be sold by the gram, so again buyer beware of the cheap stuff - turquoise costs money!
One ‘fake’ turquoise that I have seen myself is made from howlite, which is a white stone with dark streaks, very soft and porous. When it has been dyed a turquoise color, it can make a very convincing stone. Look first for a sign, if they aren’t advertising it as turquoise jewelry, this would be a cue to ask politely what stone they are using. “Turquoise” by itself can include treated and even artificial turquoise - so there’s really only one question to ask: Is this natural turquoise? ”
Have fun with this, and when you’re out to buy something new and special, educate yourself. There are tons of very reputable sites online that can teach us about the properties of stones, both precious and semi precious. And with the knowledge you gain, it will make your treasures just that much more special, knowing you hold something rare in your hand.
Sheri,
Wyvern’s Whims